Add the water to the bowl of a standing mixer. Sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the surface of the water. Stir until combined. Let stand at room temperature until foamy, about 5 to 10 minutes.
Using a large wooden spoon, mix in 1 cup of the flour along with the kosher salt. Add more flour a couple of tablespoons at a time until a thick, shaggy dough that clears the sides of the bowl forms. Let the mixture rest for 20 minutes before continuing.
Using the mixer's dough hook, knead until the dough is smooth and slightly tacky, about 3 minutes. After kneading, if the dough still feels really sticky, knead in a bit more flour.
Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl. Turn once to coat the top and cover the bowl with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a cool area until tripled in bulk, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. If you have time, punch down the dough and let it rise again for about an hour.